The sun is rising and only a few surfers are in the water. I wait, sitting with my surfboard pointed towards the horizon. A Pelican skims across the surface of a wave. Shortly after a fish jumps, and I can’t help to smile. I remember when learning to surf for the first time, I was told by legendary surfer Brian (Buster) Landrigan, “Once bitten by the surf bug, you will be addicted.” I never forgot this. There is a bump upon the horizon, when the wave arrives I turn around and begin to paddle. I feel the wave’s energy pick my board up, quickly I pop up and glide away.

Check out this short guide at 33mag.com

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